Cassandra Hierholzer: Every shoot takes on a life of its own as soon as you step on set.”

You took on three roles in this beauty editorial—model, photographer, and makeup artist. What inspired you to approach this project so holistically?

Initially I started this during Covid lockdown, when collaborating with photographers and makeup artists wasn’t an option. While I still love sharing someone else’s vision, with this shoot I had something very specific in mind and I feel fortunate to have the tools and ability to fulfill all these roles on a shoot.

How did your creative vision evolve when you realized you would be both in front of and behind the camera?

It’s always a challenge because it’s so rare that exactly what’s in your mind is what ends up in the camera. Every shoot takes on a life of its own as soon as you step on set, and even more so when you’re pushing a button with your foot to get the shot. My posture is limited, I have to take a lot more shots and it takes a lot longer to review all of them. But I lean into the limitations and it inevitably becomes part of the secret sauce that makes the perfect shot so special.

As the makeup artist for the shoot, what concept or emotions were you aiming to express through the beauty looks?

It’s different for every shoot; sometimes I like to focus on a specific color or a shape, and that drives the emotion and tone. For this one specifically, I was inspired by a bumblebee - both the colors and the shape of their wings. I wanted to do some fine line work with the eye makeup, so the curves and intersections of black and yellow are much like a bumblebee wing. The vibe ended up translating well, with some shots being more dramatic and others soft and earthy.

Did wearing multiple creative hats change the way you connected with yourself as a model during the shoot?

Yes! This is the toughest part in my opinion. The energy and direction from a photographer or creative director on a shoot can be so helpful and can really help me as a model to push my own limits. When I’m both model and photographer, I have to do that for myself. I am always very, very tired at the end of these shoots!

What were the biggest challenges of managing all three roles simultaneously, and how did you overcome them?

Patience is the key. And I am very impatient, so I struggle with this. I remind myself that rushing never gets the results I want. I’ve had to throw away entire shoots because I skimped on one part, and the shots weren’t up to my standards. So, I take a lot of deep breaths, drink a lot of coffee, put on some good music, and force myself to do it right. It always pays off in the end.

How did your understanding of lighting, angles, and composition influence your makeup and posing choices?

I really like to let the makeup and styling drive this first and foremost. If I’m working with bold colors and strong lines, my poses will match and I’ll adjust the lighting and set until it feels just right. This is a lot of trial and error, but I work it out with my test shots so once it feels right, I can go nuts with lots of poses that fit the vibe.

Can you walk us through your creative process—from initial idea to the final images published in MALVIE?

1. This one started with a color - yellow. I thought, I never shoot in yellow. I look bad in yellow. Sounds like a good challenge.

2. From there, my mind immediately went to bees and how that could serve as an inspiration for shapes, lines and even the specific shade of yellow. I had to buy a few new makeup palettes until I found the perfect one with the boldness and brightness I wanted.

3. I sat on the idea for a while, then one weekend I just woke up, felt inspired and started drawing shapes on my face. I did this for hours until I landed on the eye makeup inspired by the wings.

4. Once I’m 90% confident with the makeup direction, I start on the set. I decide on a backdrop color, gels (I ended up using none for this one!), camera and light settings. I test many, many adjustments until I’m satisfied with both the overall tone and how the light and camera capture the most important part of the makeup - in this case, specifically the yellows on both the eyes and cheeks.

5. After that, I finalize my makeup and hair. I like a minimalist wardrobe unless it’s a shoot focused on fashion; I don’t want to distract from the makeup, just find a simple way to amplify it.

6. Once all my shots are done, I exhaustively review them and choose 5-10 that capture the intent and also meet technical standards. Once I have those, I scroll through them a few times until I decide on the best - it’s usually the one where I can squint and really see the final vision.

7. I focus my time on editing that first photo. It takes a while, both to remove any distracting elements and to emphasize the right things. Once I’m happy with that first shot, I repeat the process for the others.

8. The final step is figuring out how to share the work. It’s so challenging these days to find a meaningful way to share something so special to you - that’s when I thought of MALVIE. What better way to contribute to a space where art, beauty, and community are appreciated and respected?

Beauty editorials often tell a story. What narrative or message were you hoping to convey through this series?

For me, this one was easy - beauty in the small things. Beauty in an under appreciated color. Beauty in fine lines. Beauty in a bumblebee.

How does this project reflect your personal artistic identity or evolution as a creator?

One word: curiosity. Curiosity and exploration are key to my innovation and growth. I took a risk with this shoot, and that has been vital to me and my development.

Were there any unexpected moments or discoveries during the shoot that shaped the final outcome?

I found that black eyeshadow worked better on my lips than black lipstick, who knew?

What does being featured in MALVIE Magazine mean to you at this stage of your career?

It’s such an honor and a joy. I’ve always been a creative but growth on the technical side has been massive for me. An opportunity like this is a testament to the importance of both, and leaves me feeling even more committed to creating.

What advice would you give to artists who want to explore multidisciplinary creative work in the beauty and fashion industry?

1. Just do it! If you want it, make it happen. Borrow a camera, volunteer to assist a makeup artist - whatever you need to get you to the next step.

2. The more experience you have in different roles, the more empathy you develop for everyone on a set. You not only learn those skills so you can do them yourself if you want, but you also become a better partner and collaborator.

3. If it brings you joy, it is worth it!

Model/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist/Retoucher/Photographer: Cassandra Hierholzer @rivereuphrates