Can you tell us about your latest collection, Fall/Winter 2024 "Insomnia," and the inspiration behind it?
This collection is a follow up of my previous collection who was the first time i was showing a collection under the new label name BROKEN HEART who is a BDSM couture line. This collection is more complete and show a panel of different full couture looks and not just a regular fetish wear that already excisting in the industry.
How did your personal experiences and emotions influence the design process for this collection?
I don't sketch, i do everthing by myself, sew, cut, patern, style, financing... so my way to work is unique and extremly emotional. It start with an idea... a bit like a movie or a dream. I wrote a lot of my ideas instead of sketching them. Sometimes i wake up in a middle of the night and write my dreams or my nightmare... I then translate them into their garment interpretation
We understand that the collection draws inspiration from the punk/rock movement of the 80s with a modern twist. Can you elaborate on the specific elements and details that reflect this inspiration?
I knew i wanted to work on shoulders constructions, that is why you have a lot of strong shoulders on the collection. The reasons is i wanted to go back to my roots. When i was in Fashion School it was around 2004-2008. My first school design were inspired by my Idol, Martin Margiela who at that time was still designing.
So the shoulders came from his work at that time and the 80's has always been a big inspo for me as i was born in the 80's and the Fashion at that time following the 90's were just the most outrageous and vibrant with Mugler, Alaia or Karl at Chanel.
Your signature leather and fetish wear were prominently featured in the collection. How do these elements contribute to the overall aesthetic and theme?
I want to give a new vision of Fetish wear... being Fetish is not just wearing a harness... its a lifestyle... its not just a trend. I always loved Leather and faux leather, it is extremly sexy and powerful and that's the vision i want to do with BROKENHEART
What motivated you to re-brand your label as Couture only and rename it "Broken Heart"? How does this rebranding reflect the emotional and psychological aspects of heartbreak?
After my partner passed away in 2021, i wanted to give up on everything, then i knew that would be something he would not agree and i decided to start fresh and designing what i really wanted and not just try to be commercial to please others.
The rebranding of your company signifies a new direction for your brand. How does your latest collection represent this new direction?
This new collection is the most completed i ever did. It has jackets, tops, bottoms, coats, bra, hats, dresses, etc... it really give a full vision of my way to show my brand in a high fashion fetish wear.
How does your collection for Broken Heart differ from your previous work? In what ways do you showcase your passion and dedication to your craft in this collection?
Everything from A to Z were made my myself with my 2 small machines. It is rough because i auto finance myself and so metimes it can be frustrating because i want to do so much more but without a team or finances, it is limited. But i am so proud of what i am able to show and how my craft became more and more professional as far as constructions and vision.
What makes your inaugural collection for Broken Heart unique and one-of-a-kind, with no intention of reproduction?
At lot of pieces are made with fabrics who were used for others clothing and it is recycling.
These pieces are one of kind for this aspect. I wanted for this collection to be unique like all the love i had for my partner who were unique as well. Now the project is working on a capsule collection were i can produce a bit and selling online to everybody. For this project, i am looking for partners or investor.
Can you share any insights into the techniques or materials used in creating the Fall/Winter 2024 "Insomnia" collection?
Most is genuine leather ( lamb skin or calf) and also vegan leather. vegan leather is great for the strech, it's like Latex, you can really build the dress on a body versus genuine leather, it can be difficult. Faux fur as well as it always been a hit when i used to do my first faux fur coats years ago when i came to LA. Create Faux Fur oversized Coat in Los Angeles with 100 degres... that is luxury!
How has your personal journey and the tragic loss of your partner influenced your creative process and the themes explored in your latest collection?
BROKENHEART was created for my partner who passed away. He was suffering of addiction and mental issue. It is important to speak about it... a Fetish can be all of that. It can be good & bad.
As a major player in the fashion industry for over a decade, how do you see your designs introducing up-cycling, no gender, and couture touches?
I always liked to giving life to second hands and vintage but not just the way it was... re-working clothes & fabric has always been a passion. Im coming with no money background so early on i had to use my creativity to making clothes looking expensive with a $1 yard fabric... I am part of the lgbt+ community, so having a no gender line is just an evidence. I don't even have to say it is... its just natural.
How do you envision Broken Heart making an impact in the fashion industry and bringing something unique to the table?
Because everybody has a fetish and everybody should fine theirs!
Also i really try to bring a different vision of the fetish wear and not just the regular leather harness or latex catsuit.
Can you tell us about your background and education in fashion, including your move from Belgium to Los Angeles to pursue your passion?
I was born in Belgium, study Fashion Design in Brussels. Early on age, i had to take care of myself as my parents never accepted that i was gay so i has to work very early to make money and pay for my rent and my fashion school. I became a fachion stylist for magazine and artist then moved to LA in 2012 from Belgium. I created my line under my full name and sold it to different store in LA & NYC. My influence is and will always been Europe. Berlin and Brussels has been a major influence for the past 3 years.
What does it mean for you to showcase your collection at SFWRUNWAY? How does this platform align with your brand's mission and values?
SFW has been a huge support to my brand since the begining. I start showing my collection to their show since 2016. I know they really want to put designers and artists out there and not just money makers like a lot of fashion week organisations.
How do you see your brand resonating with the diverse audience that attends SFW RUNWAY shows and representing street style fashion?
The word streetwear has been used so mucg for the past 5-6 years, it became so mainstream but at the end what we are doing is street wear! Yes maybe im not desiging hoodie and tshirts... but streetwear is not that anymore! Streetwear is people! And people are my inspiration!
Photographer: Dylan Perlot @dylanperlot @ Exclusive Artists
Photographer: Rudy Salgado @rudysalgadophoto
Creative Director: SFW RUNWAY @sfwrunway